Tiger Territory

I made it! And this is going to sound odd, but it didn’t occur to me that visiting my future family, on my own, in a country a few thousand miles from my own, was going to be scary. At least not until I was on my way to the airport, throat closing up in apprehension.

A few hours after leaving New Delhi, I landed in Bangalore, and stood sweating my makeup off whilst I waited for my suitcase at the carousel. I think in all seriousness those few minutes will always number among the most anxious of my life.

Then the moment arrived. And to my great relief, it wasn’t at all as terrifying as I had imagined. A few handshakes and hugs, and that was it. I had introduced myself to N’s mother, brother-in-law, and nephew (who is far more frightened of me than I will ever be of him). The communication is not easy, since my Tamil is rather poor, my Telegu non-existent, and N’s mother does not speak much English, but I think so far I am doing more than okay. His sister and I get along very well, and I am head-over-heels for his one-year-old niece! ❤

We have had a lot of time to get to know each other, since we have spent much of our time driving. From Bangalore to Mysore. From Mysore to Ooty, and today the drive back from Ooty to Mysore (though for the latter I was so tired I slept most of it away).

Ooty is a popular place for tourists. With its eucalyptus forests, tea estates and lakes, its hairpin roads makes for some seriously scenic viewing. Even to get close we travelled through miles of lush green countryside, a stark contrast to the hustle of New Delhi. One thing I learnt during my time at Amity is that India is a country of many cultures, and this has become very apparent to me, since the place in which I now find myself is an entirely new world in which to find my feet.

Passing through several sanctuary areas, we saw signs warning cars not to stop due to the risk of bison, elephants, and tigers. I’m afraid we did not catch sight of the last one on that list, but we did see a wild elephant, peacocks, deer (maan in Tamil), and monkeys everywhere. I think they are a slightly different species to the ones I saw in Delhi. Allegedly these are better behaved, and less inclined to pick fights with tourists over food and phones, but I’m not sure I trust them enough to get too near 😉

Once in Ooty we visited the lake, where we enjoyed a boat trip, and then checked in at our hotel. In true Indian style, I found myself sharing a room with the whole family, but since I spent so much of my childhood sleeping at friends’ houses and talking through all hours of the night, it’s less to get used to than I thought it might be. In fact, the only thing I have really struggled with so far is getting used to eating without cutlery. I don’t mind using my hands, but for now, I’m an embarrassingly messy eater.

We also went to Doddabetta, which is the highest mountain in Tamil Nadu, and today up to Dolphin Nose, which offers the most fantastic view of the tea estates, a roaring waterfall, and the surrounding forests. It is home to a large troupe of (you guessed it!) monkeys, who were more than happy to pose for some photos.

A quick trip to the Chocolate Museum (Ooty is famous for its homemade produce), and to a hill overlooking Avalanche Lake – a popular site for movie shoots – and we started the drive back. On the way we also stopped to visit the local Hanuman temple – a cacophony of colours and smells.

So far, so good? I believe so.

Did Two Weeks Ever Go So Fast?

I can hardly believe it, but I’m leaving New Delhi tomorrow! My bags are packed, all my treasures are wrapped inside my clothes, and my student accommodation at Amity looks as spartan as it did when I arrived.

The past three days have been as exciting as the rest. We’ve had nine different lectures on a variety of subjects, including positive psychology, and attended as many yoga sessions as the time allowed. I am so much more flexible, even from just this short stint of intensive practise. Though I must admit my muscles feel like mincemeat…

Lectures aside, we’ve made a few last excursions, including a visit to the National Stock Exchange (the Delhi branch – headquarters are in Mumbai), which was infinitely more interesting than I was expecting. I took notes, and they gave us spicy falafel sandwiches. I think I’m no more qualified to invest shares than I was before, but the trip was insightful. Sometimes things are interesting simply because you would not ordinarily have the chance to see them.

We also made a last market trip. This time to the Tibetan Market, where I found some last presents, and a new handbag for myself. Since I’ve already packed everything up I can’t actually show you, but you better believe I’ll be making immediate use of it when I (eventually) get back to the UK.

Sadly, Taylor sprained her ankle by tripping on a concealed pothole during our wanderings, but we remain in good spirits, and don’t want to leave. I feel so lucky to have met all the friends I have made here. It’s quite strange, but I think quite often when you throw a group together in a foreign country it’s inevitable that they will form deep and lasting bonds. We have already made plans for a reunion, and I can’t wait for some of the Amity students to visit the UK. I have every intention of repaying their hospitality.

Today was the last day of the programme, and I volunteered to speak on behalf of the three students from my university. Public speaking has never been my forte, but I am really glad I challenged myself to do it, because it gave me the chance to tell the buddy students and the Amity staff how great this has all been.

Goodbyes said (with no shortage of fervent hugs), things away, and alarms set for the morning, it’s sad to say that in a few hours there will be no physical sign that we were ever here. We’ll be off, to our various parts of the UK and Europe, and everything will be no more than a story to tell.

I do think, however, that this has been a more than inspiring experience. I have seen so much, and can finally say I have experienced India! Its capital no less. There’s no doubting that I’ll come back to this incredible city someday.

But for now, onwards! Tomorrow I’ll be leaving my friends and flying by myself to Bangalore, to meet N’s family for the first time… It’s an exciting and anxious prospect. I am really excited to compare the cultures in southern India with those in the north, and to try some authentic home-cooked Indian food. Photos forthcoming! Au revoir until then, mes amies! ❤

Further Afield

Yes, I went where the picture suggests! I spent the weekend travelling, visiting the Taj Mahal in Agra, and the Amer Fort in Jaipur. It was a long drive, so we were lucky enough to see some of rural India. Lush greenery, interspersed with farms, lavish hotels, hovels and mud huts. Often all four of these things in immediate proximity to one another, defying any notion of affluence and poverty congregating in particular areas.

The Taj Mahal was as incredible as I was expecting it to be. I think quite often these things can prove a little underwhelming in reality, but even beneath an overcast sky (we drove through an actual monsoon to get there) this grand burial site was one of the loveliest works of architecture I’ve ever seen.

Surrounded by the bustle of other tourists – the vast majority Indians enjoying the long weekend (it was the birth of Krishna on Sunday) – it was quite easy to forget that this awe-inspiring site is actually a burial ground. It was completed in 1653, to house the body of Mumtaz Mahal, wife of the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan. She gave birth to fourteen children, and was so much the love of his life that it is said after the Taj was completed Shah Jahan visited it every day, and wept over her casket.

Both the bodies are interred below ground, in part of the mausoleum not accessible to the public, but inside there is a replica of their tomb. Other than this it is actually quite a spartan building on the inside, however. Beautifully engraved, but the total lack of colour makes for a stark spectacle.

We were told that the Taj actually changes colour, becoming pink at dawn, and yellow at dusk – two sights I would absolutely love to see. It is definitely a place I intend to come back to, if only to take it in again. I think I was rather awestruck, and therefore the memory of it seems rather dream-like. Was I actually there? At times I find it hard to believe.

We headed on to Jaipur, to one of Amity’s smaller campuses, which is populated by 4000 students, and almost as many animals. Almost an hour’s drive from the city, the campus is an absolute haven for wildlife, including a huge population of geese. We went to breakfast serenaded by about a gaggle of about seventy.

There wasn’t much time to linger on the campus, however. With the long drive back to Noida looming, we went straight out to see as much of Jaipur as the time allowed, starting with the incredible Amer Fort. I was impressed by the Taj Mahal, but honestly, I think the fort was even better. Photos really don’t do justice to the vivid yellowness of the stone, or the sheer size of the place.

Stretching over mountainous hills, the fort is another building with a story. It has existed in some form or another since 967 AD, but is most famous for the era in which it was occupied by a certain king and his twelve wives – all of whom were born under a different sign of the zodiac.

Since it is such a hilly region we abandoned the bus in favour of Jeeps. A few years ago it was possible to ride elephants up the hillside, but animal rights violations have fortunately since been addressed, so the only elephants just offer short rides around the village and courtyard. We were still not sure about the treatment of the animals, however, so did not partake.

After admiring the mirror walls, and the starry effect created by a smartphone torch on these glittering shards, we headed back to the city, took a quick lunch, and visited one of the local markets. Jaipur is actually very famous in India for its fine jewels and handicrafts. With no small degree of stress, I managed to haggle my way to some decent prices on some pumps embroidered with peacock feathers, scarves, earrings and bangles.

Then the long, long, long drive back to Amity in Noida. Six hours of crazy roads, spotted with dogs, cows and daredevil motorcyclists, and we made it, to collapse in our beds.

And that brings us to today! More classes, on Indian law, hospitality, marketing, and a real wild card: astrology. The latter is such a huge part of Indian culture that we could hardly go without. I can’t say I’m a subscriber to it myself, but I do consider it an interesting thing to delve into. As a Cancerian, I am ruled by the moon, which means I am a calm, disciplined individual with big eyes. True or not, I’ll take it 😉

A Weekend in New (and Old) Delhi

We have spent the past two days sightseeing in New Delhi, and it doesn’t get more authentically Indian than an Indian spice market in the historical quarter of the city. Chandni Chowk translates as the Moonlight Square. One of the oldest markets in New Delhi, this blaze of colour and smells (not all of them wholesome) encompasses the Red Fort, together with a plethora of original houses, temples and mosques.

After a morning of lectures on India’s economic situation and social enterprises, we were in search of some ‘real’ India. Chandni Chowk delivered.

We went on a walking tour throughout, and it was a riot. People everywhere. Stray dogs winding through our ankles. Enough airborne chilli powder to make the eye water. And every colour, everywhere. Wandering through saree shops and trinket emporiums, I thought it the very definition of ‘experiencing’ a country. I just wish we’d had more time to stop…

Because of the time constraints we were given little opportunity to barter for goods, and could only gaze longingly at shelves upon shelves of glittering embroidery before finding ourselves rounding the next corner, where we discovered lotus seeds and turmeric, saffron and cumin.

To escape the mad rush of it all (and the constant risk of being run over by the river of autos and tuk-tuks) we went up to the rooftops via some dark, narrow and rickety stairs. From there we were able to look out on it all with the dragonflies picking off the mosquitoes. Also in attendance were a family of monkeys, who I’m afraid might have proved too fond of my camera, had I approached close enough to take a good picture.

Open sewers aside, Chandni Chowk was one of the most ‘real’ experiences I’ve ever had, and the rooftop view gave powerful insight into the hundreds of tiny apartments stacked on top of each other. In our economics class we were told that 23% of the Indian population still lives below the poverty line (earning less than $2 a day), and it’s not hard to believe, looking at the tiny spaces allocated to some of the city’s working class. I see no way that anyone living here can enjoy any privacy.

We also went on a quick visit to a local Sikh temple yesterday, which was interesting, but a bit of a disorganised venture, since none of us had been informed beforehand. We had to scramble to find some head coverings before we could respectfully go inside. Walking barefoot on the lavish carpet, we saw a collection of religious relics, and a huge number of devout worshippers.

We made another religious exploration today, by visiting the Lotus Temple, which is a Bahá’í House of Worship. An inherent part of this faith is the welcoming of all faiths, and the temple therefore invites all to enter, and to use the space for praying to whichever God the believer believes in. Bahá’ís believe that there is inherent and equal worth in all religions, and that God is best served through unity.

No photos inside, I’m afraid, and respectful silence was demanded, though there were some rather cheeky birds flitting in and out of the alcoves, singing to each other without much care for the rules. I think it added some character to the place, which was otherwise plain, compared to much of the other architecture we have seen.

Today we also went to two other places. The Dilli Haat market, where I bought myself a kurta (it’s rather beautiful, if I do say so myself), and the Qutab Minar. The former was rather more expensive a market than I had hoped we would be given the chance the shop at, but I am pleased with my one purchase, and looking forward to open-air shopping opportunities in Agra.

The Qutab Minar is a minaret (the tallest in the world made of bricks), and forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site from 1192, full of grand arches, tombs, engraved walls, pillars, and ancient trees. It was possibly my favourite place I’ve visited in India so far, especially as it had a large population of green parakeets, some birds of prey, and hundreds of miniature squirrels, who were so bold as to approach outstretched hands and sniff them for treats!

The Qutab Minar is actually quite a tragic place, I later discovered, since the minaret was the site of a major accident in 1981. When the internal lighting failed, visitors stampeded for the exit, and 47 were killed. Most of them schoolchildren. The stairs have been closed to the public ever since. It is still a wonderful place to explore, however, with all sorts of crumbling things to climb, passages and nooks to explore. The sort of place that you can never feel you have seen every side of. Like much of India that I have experienced so far, I found it mysterious, and fascinating.

We Went to a Temple… And it had a Ride

It’s been a busy two days, and some strange things have filled the time. We’ll start with yesterday, when I went on an industry visit to the Mother Dairy factory in New Delhi. It’s a milk plant, so the gang and I learnt about milk (and sampled some freebies – a delicious mango lassi, and strawberry ice-cream).

Mother Dairy is the largest dairy provider in New Delhi, but the factory has no cows, for the simple reason that the company instead collects the milk from farmers who hand-milk their own cows across the state. These rural workers receive an 80% margin of the profits for pure milk, which Mother Dairy pasteurises and makes ready for sale. The company also makes ice creams and other dairy products, in which case they take a larger cut of the profits, due to the added costs of manufacture.

We had a tour around the machines, and though it wasn’t relevant to my interests or career plans, free ice-cream is never unwelcome.

And then. And then. Okay. This is going to be really hard to write about, because there’s a legitimate possibility that no one is going to believe that I actually saw what I saw.

We went to Akshardham, which is the largest Hindu temple in the world. The practicalities of hosting thousands of visitors each day, combined with terrorism fears and the sanctity of the place, mean that cameras and electronic devices are strictly forbidden. I did manage to buy a photo book there however (just ₹50), so at least I have some of those professional snaps to share instead in place of my own pictures.

It was one of the strangest experiences of my life, and I’ll explain why. This temple was built in 2005. You heard me correctly. Built using traditional methods, it is solid stone, but an entirely modern construction, built to honour a Hindu prophet-like figure from the 18th century, Swaminarayan.

Promoting the spiritual value of non-violence, he was able to achieve enlightenment before his 25th birthday. His followers believe he was a living god, and that he has been reborn several times since his original death. His current and sixth spiritual successor is Mahant Swami Maharaj.

Okay, but this is where it gets weird. At first, my mind refused to believe this place was a modern construction. The intricate carvings, the traditional style, and the general grandeur of the place had me convinced that I and everyone in the group had misheard our guide. But then we got to the animatronics. And the fountain show. And the ride.

I swear it’s true. After receiving our blessings, and those who wished to having said their prayers, we visited the animatronic display of Swarminarayan’s life, following him from his childhood of working miracles on fish – bringing them back to life – through his journey to guru, and eventual position as a manifestation of God. Some of the dolls were uncannily lifelike, and I can say it is the only experience of the kind I have ever had.

Afterwards we went on the boat ride, which took us on another animatronic time voyage, this one through the cultural history of India, beginning from its Vedic, nature-worshipping roots, and leading to the country’s ongoing role as a place of spiritual significance. I’m not going to say it wasn’t one of the weirdest things ever, but it was pretty cool. Though I’m not religious, I couldn’t help but admire the way this particular temple (and perhaps Hinduism in a wider sense) has made its traditions accessible for modern audiences.

We finished the trip after dark, by watching a spectacular fountain show. I was quite literally open-mouthed in awe for much of the performance, as coloured lasers created ethereal waves of light in the spray, which stretched as high as the temple itself, moving like clouds at sunset.

There was music, there was holographic projection, and though I almost don’t want to admit it, it was most definitely a spiritual experience that I will carry with me for the rest of my life. They didn’t make me a believer, but I have to give this temple credit, because for a moment, when the mantras were humming through my bones, and I was all but swimming in shimmers of silky rainbow light, I was somewhere close.

A quick run through the gift shop, where I bought my pictures, and a copy of the Mahabharata (which I have been trying to find a good translation of for months), and we went home, speechless.

Today was a bit more subdued. We spent it on campus, at Amity’s communications and media centre (which has a working newsroom studio!). After an icebreaker, during which the students dressed us in Indian styles – find me in the front row – we were initiated into the art of Indian dance. The students gave demonstrations of styles from all over the country, and their professor showed her prowess for Kathak, which means ‘story’. It is quite literally a style which combines facial expression with bodily movement to tell a specific tale.

There was also another, which I cannot name, but attempted to learn. It essentially involves moving your feet at an impossible speed, all the while keeping to a strict rhythm. I was not a natural talent, but it was great fun. We also got to practice our Bollywood moves (turns out I have none…), and the energy was so infectious that I found myself getting really into it, forgetting that I was terrible at it, and having one of the most fun dancing experiences of my life.

Then an evening of yoga! After our lecture the other day, how could I not? Taylor and I went with a few others from the gang, and joined the Amity students. I was more flexible than I thought I was going to be, but I think I’ve a way to go before I can wrap my arms around my ankles with bending my knees, as the teacher (who I think may have been a noodle masquerading as a human being) demonstrated.

We have been invited to go back any evenings we are free, and this is an offer I’m definitely going to take up. But for now, sleep. Class tomorrow morning, and then a trip to Old Delhi, where I might finally find a market!

School, and the Sansad Bhawan

It’s been a while since I’ve actually felt like a student. My last lecture was sometime back in May (I think?), and though it’s only recently I’ve handed in my final assignment, the idea of classes has become quite abstract. But yesterday I went back to school.

As part of the scholarship programme, we have been offered various lectures on topics relating to Indian culture and law. After a blessing ceremony, when our foreheads were dotted with a red fingerprint, we were taught by Dr W. Selvamurthy, an expert on the scientific health benefits of yoga.

Yoga, as a word, originates from the term ‘yug’ which means to create unity between the body and the mind. Its eight limbs offer a ladder to a state of spiritual bliss, or ‘moksha’. Since yoga is over 5000 years old, it comes intertwined with a great deal of spiritualism, but as well as this side Doctor Selvamurthy also shared his scientific studies, conducted on some of India’s 1.3 million military personnel. His findings suggest that yoga is one of the most effective forms of exercise, as it not only increases flexibility, but improves breathing, heart rate, and even heightens brain activity, promoting increased concentration and mental discipline.

To be honest I was kind of sold on the idea when he said he was 69 years old. I had presumed he was in his early fifties.

After lunch (the food continues to be amazing, and so far my stomach is holding up!) we had a second lecture. This time on religious diversity in India, presented by Dr. S. Bansal. Though less specialised, this was still interesting. I think because in India religion and culture have a much deeper relationship than in Europe. In fact, though atheism is growing a great deal more prevalent in the younger generation, I realised that in India you will not hear the question ‘do you believe in God?’ but instead ‘what god do you believe in?’

It was a pretty full-on day of learning, but since dinner is served late we ended up with afternoon left to use. After we had exhausted the amusements in the arcade, one of the Amity buddy students invited us to basketball practice. I did not take him up on the offer because the idea of fainting away in the heat was a very real prospect, but I did go to spectate, and this gave me the opportunity to chat with some other students from Amity, including an international, from Bhutan, who was also watching the game, and told me about all the places in Europe she would one day like to go.

And then today. Today was a long day (I’m actually yawning as I write this), and the bulk of it was spent visiting the Sansad Bhawan, or the Indian houses of parliament. I was not able to take photos there, as all electronic devices are strictly forbidden. In fact, the security was so tight that we were told the only items we would be allowed to take inside were our passports.

We arrived in an actual monsoon. The kind of rain that takes only minutes to create ankle-deep puddles, and which falls such force that your feet get just as wet from the splashing of droplets as they would from walking into the raging flow barreling down into the drains. Hot, sticky, tropical rain that arrives without warning, and vanishes in seconds. We got soaked walking across the road. And then, of course, it stopped.

A guided tour took about an hour, and we saw the halls of both the Rajya Sabha (roughly equivocal to the UK’s House of Lords) and the Lok Sabha (not dissimilar to the House of Commons), as well as the Library Hall, which has the capacity to seat both houses, and is used on just two or three occasions during the year. This latter room is by far the grandest, with a huge domed ceiling, and walls lined with paintings of national heroes.

The air gets very steamy after the rains in New Delhi, so the walk back to the coach was pretty awful, but I do think my tolerance for the humidity is improving. I no longer feel like I’m sweating quite hard enough to wring out my clothes, and the headaches I had for the first few days seem to be less severe.

The Kent bursary students (Taylor, Naomi and I) went out this evening, along with Maanasa, one of the Amity buddies, and law student from Hyderabad. Unfortunately, Delhi is really not that safe at night, especially for women, so the university has ruled we must never leave the campus without an Indian student. This may seem quite extreme given that we have all lived abroad, but without our speaking Hindi or knowing the city well, there is a good chance we could run into serious trouble if we ventured out alone.

We were invited for dinner by the University of Kent’s International Officer, Kayleigh, and met her at the Taj Palace Hotel, in the diplomatic enclave, which is one of the city’s most affluent regions. Full of scented lilies, marble floors, and velvet chairs, it could have given the Ritz a run for its money.

Dinner we took elsewhere, in a place called The Town Hall, which has been converted from its original purpose and namesake. Considering the fact that meals on Amity campus usually cost less than ₹100, this place was super expensive, costing over ₹900 per head. When you work out the exchange rate it’s not actually that pricey for foreigners, but I think I’ve been getting used to rupees, because I found it quite shocking. The blueberry mojitos were pretty good though, I must say…

Heading home, stomachs full, we had a good chat about the evening, and about our time in India so far. One thing we can all agree on is the exceptional hospitality of our hosts. For me, I’d go so far as to say it feels like I have been here for long than a few days. I’ve settled. More than that, I’ve made some friends 🙂

It Looked Like a Palace

Oh, so let’s see if we can keep up this writing pace (I think probably not, but let’s say I’ll try…). Day two in India, India post number two. And I should wish you happy Raksha Bandhan – yesterday was a north Indian festival, a national holiday, when brothers pledge to protect their sisters for life.

In the afternoon (after a delicious lunch – selected local dishes), we went on an excursion to Hauz Khas Village, which is actually not a village at all, but the ruin of a mosque and tomb, situated next to a historical water reservoir. The surrounding area is made up of Indian shops and apartments.

The footing was a little treacherous, with very few handrails, and unlit stone staircases winding through the stone, but it was a wonderful place to explore, with all sorts of hidden rooms and passageways.

The human inhabitants of the beautiful ruin are probably less than dust now, since the place predates the southern region of the city, but it has various animal occupants. We saw at least twenty squirrels. The species here rather resembles a chipmunk with a fluffy grey tail. There were also a number of birds, including green parakeets, as well as a pack of stray dogs, and a monkey! We were told to steer well clear of the latter, as monkeys are renowned for bag thievery.

And ants. Black ants at least the size of my thumbnail. These insects are harmless, however. The ones to worry about are red.

We also walked in the surrounding area, circling the water reservoir. The large park is a deer park, and if you come at the right time of year you can feed the cervine inhabitants. Sadly, at this time of year they are moved elsewhere, as they naturally migrate in search of more favorable weather.

A drink of fresh coconut water from a roadside seller, and we took our taxi back to a more modern setting. The roads are, well, Indian roads. The stereotypes are not untrue. So far I have seen up to five people on one motorbike, but as far as our Indian guides are concerned, that’s nothing worthy of comment.

We went to a restaurant/bar/club called Time Machine (oddly steampunk), and I tried hibiscus ice tea (so sweet I could feel the enamel on my teeth dissolving). Then back for a late dinner – yet more Indian dishes. I was a big fan of one particular chickpea curry/salad dish. Our room has no hot water, so you might think an evening shower to round off the day is a pretty brutal affair, but since it was about 38°C (standard for the time of year), and as humid as the tropical house at the zoo, I’m telling you, it isn’t that bad.

Classes today. The schedule provided by the University of Kent when they sent me on this programme was pretty loose, so no idea of what to expect, but if nothing else, it will be something to write about.

First Impressions

I made it! I am writing this from the campus of Amity University, in Noida, which lies just east of New Delhi. I arrived at 8:20, local time, yesterday morning.

The Indira Gandhi International Airport is a large one. Proceeding through immigration, I found myself in one of about sixty queues. As far as border crossings go, this was one of the most stringent I have encountered. I was asked not only for passport and visa, but also for my invitation letter from the university. Though I had all the paperwork, I was not allowed through until I had been photographed twice, and had given all ten of my fingerprints. All in all slightly intimidating, but after the wealth of bureaucratic procedure, I was in.

At the exit gate I met two ambassador students from Amity, Puja and Rohit. Puja has been our main guide so far, and brought Taylor (my fellow bursary winner) and I back to the university campus, which is a sprawling mini city, home to 25,000 students, and several packs of stray dogs. The latter are vaccinated and neutered, so form an inherent part of life on campus. They are also very friendly.

This morning Taylor and I walked over for breakfast, and found ourselves followed by no less than four furry friends.

We were so tired yesterday that it wasn’t until the afternoon, when other students had arrived, that we made our way out of the campus for the first time. We visited the lavish Mall of India, which is the largest collection of shops in the country.

Among the familiar European and American brands were a host of high-end saree stores, selling every imaginable colour and cut in an array of iridescent fabrics.

Unfortunately, I did run into something of a stumbling block. Namely, the blocking of my bank card, despite my telling my bank about my departure in advance. Several fraught calls during the night and it has been sorted, but it was a stressful experience (particularly for one as tired as I was).

The prices at the mall were not much different in terms of value compared with British and French shops, but I’m hoping we’ll soon be able to head out to some local markets, where haggling will ensure my spending money goes a bit further.

It’s almost midday (at the time of writing), so after a morning recovering from the jetlag we should be heading out soon. I’m looking forward to taking some more photos, and wandering about without feeling like a zombie. It is extremely hot (over 30 degrees already!), so I’ve got my hat, shades, suncream and bug spray. With luck, I should be ready for anything.

The Never-ending Journey

It’s lunchtime in Berlin. One obligatory overpriced sandwich, and a glass of juice, and now I’m waiting to check in at one of the most dismal airports I’ve been to.

It’s not the most romantic of starts, but this might be one case where the journey is less important than the destination. Give me about sixteen hours, and I’ll be writing from New Delhi, no less than a world away.

Today I am departing for my long awaited scholarship at Amity University. The biggest adventure of my life so far? It’s possible. There’s not much to say but here goes nothing. Until India!

And Berlin has been a total blast, by the way. Auf Wiedersehen, meine Freunde ❤

I’m Going to India!

The past few months have been messy. I haven’t blogged in anything but the most cursory sense since I don’t know when, and I seem to have been living underwater, surfacing for air once every few weekends, but otherwise living submerged in a mindless rhythm of churning out words for my dissertation.

It has reached a stage where I no longer know what it means. I write and rewrite, edit and re-edit in a vain search for meaning, understanding those authors who seem unable to finish their series. I think, like me, they get so caught up in the vision of the story that to write it becomes impossible.

In one clairvoyant moment when I lifted my head, I sent an application. I think it was more to break from the slog than because I thought there was any hope of hearing back, but hear back I did. And then in rapid fire succession there was an interview, and now though I’m still reeling from the surprise of it, it seems I… got it?

Wait. What?

I’m going to India for two weeks of summer school! Hooray! Everything but travel is funded by my scholarship! Hooray! I’ll get to go on another adventure, just when my current one comes to an end! Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!

Excuse me if that seems a bit sarcastic. It isn’t, not at all, but I’m still waiting for it to feel in any way real. Flights are booked, my visa is approved, and all the confirmation emails have been sent and received, but the only word is surreal.

I will be studying at Amity University in Uttar Pradesh for two weeks, then flying south to Bangalore to meet my Indian family for the first time. Afterwards I shall arrive home a more cultured, international person, and a better blogger. Goodness knows I’ve made that commitment many times, but as part of the scholarship, I have to document my trip, and share it with the world.

Updates soon!